Below is the transcript of a manuscript that was handed down to me, of a voyage made almost 100 years ago, by a young fellow with probably much the same interest and instinct for places afar as I had at much the same age. How different was his own experience to mine. It seems that this person was a friend of my Great Grandmother. Like me, he left England for Australia, leaving a sweetheart behind.
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RMS Ormuz leaving Sydney


RMS Ormuz Leaving Sydney

The above image was sent to me from Tony Pane who lives in Sydney whose Grandfather served as a steward on the Ormuz. The painting of the RMS Ormuz leaving Sydney was commissioned by him and painted by marine artist Robert Blackwell in 2006.

The Ormuz was a 6,031 gross ton ship, built by Fairfield's Shipbuilding & Emgineering Co, Glasgow in 1886 for the Orient Steam Navigation Co.

Her dimensions were:

  • length 482ft x beam 52ft (146,91m x 15,88m)
  • She had two funnels, four masts (rigged for sail)
  • She had a single screw and a speed of 17 knots.
  • There was accommodation for 106 First, 170 Second and 120 Steerage class passengers
  • She was launched on 29th September 1886

On 3rd February 1887, she sailed on her maiden voyage from London to Melbourne and Sydney via Suez. Her normal route was - London, Gibraltar, Naples, Port Said, Suez, Colombo, Albany, Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney. She continued on this service until starting her last voyage on 18th August 1911 and was sold to Cie de Nav. Sud Atlantique the following year and renamed "Divona". She was then used on the Bordeaux - South America service until 1916 when she became a French hospital ship. In 1919 she was laid up at Marseilles where she was partially broken up in 1922, and finally scrapped at Genoa the same year.


MY FEELINGS AND SIGHTSEEING DURING THE VOYAGE.

APRIL 28th 1911

To think that I was leaving all my old friends behind was an impossible thing to imagine but when the evening came and I had to say goodbye. It made me think that something was happening.
It was hard to goodbye or farewell at my own home.. but I was ably assisted by Con (the girl I adore) along the lanes to her home, where I partook of my last meal with them. Soon time arrived to leave my best friends, farewell mater, and away we went singing to the station. Soon my train arrived and another farewell in a good spirit from jess and Kath, both wishing that they had been coming with me. Away went our train to town with Barrie and dear along with me. New St. reached. Here we waited for our train till 12­:50 a.m.
While waiting, our friends arrived, making a good send‑off party which included Cong, Polly, Barbara, Maggie, Barrie, Jack and old pal Arthur. Here we finally packed baggage and chatted. Presently a box belonging to a Mr Collett, who is a passenger on board the 'Ormuz' was found, and thoughts ran high to find the owner.
Time soon arrived to board the train. and Mr Collett was found in the next compartment. We were introduced to each other and then we returned to the train. The whistle was blown and then the final parting with my best pals. Last goodbye to my sister, and goodbye to my own love Con. whom I left determined to win her again to me in a short time.
Away went the train, and I was hard put not to get off again, I felt very dull but a few more got on at Coventry, then I found that I had left my camera, but consoled myself to include it in wire home, to send on to Marseilles. On we went to Rugby, catching the Scotch Express, and soon we were in London, arriving at 4‑40 a.m. From there we went to St. Pancrass and left luggage. Afterwards, we went a walk round London where Collett and his friends tried hard to lose me in the Strand, but I soon put things right and I arrived back to see Lilian just at 6 a.m. Off we started for the tube and off to Fenchurch Street. but found offices closed and we should not be able to get a permit to take Lilian aboard, so we started back and called at the first restaurant open at 7am. Here we quickly partook of ham and eggs with roll and butter then off to train and back to Kings Cross thence across the way to St. Pancrass. Here under the clock we met Edna and Dick just at the appointed time. From here we went to the large station clock to meet Mae who arrived at 8-30. While chatting Lilian got her ticket for Tilbury and down to get our seat in the train. Dick gave a few hints re book bath early, and Edna so kindly gave me a deck chair, another thing Dick said that I should want, and I find it is quite true too. So get these things done if any of you come out soon, which I hope will not be too long.
RMS OrmuzWell, 9a.m. arrived and a last farewell to the three, Mae saying they may be out here shortly. Lilian and myself took our seats and Mr.Collett Said goodbye to his friend and away we went along the banks of the Thames, through Leyton and at last on to the quay at Tilbury. Here I got my berth No.91 and gave up a portion or my ticket, then saw a policeman to get Lilian on board as we had not got a pass. This arranged, l left her and went aboard. Not a glorious boat-by far, but I rushed round and found my berth, then back on deck for my baggage and back to my berth to find a fair lady claiming my berth. This I soon put right as we looked at each others tickets, we found that she was wrong, hers being 94. Well, on to deck once more to find Lilian coming safely along with an elderly man who had a pass for friends, but was by himself. Once aboard we went round to look over the boat and Lilian seemed to think that it was alright. But time soon passed and at II-30a.m. friends were ordered off. Here I rather felt it as I could see Lilian pull herself together for my sake. Well, the last goodbye to my last friend and on to the dock she went. There we chatted merrily till we started at 12-30. I was pleased she stayed till the boat started. 12-30 soon arrived and very slowly we drifted out, midst cheers and the singing or "Old Lang Syne", we slowly drifted past the "Orrowa" and all our friends were out of sight. I could see Lilian waving for a long time after she must have lost sight of me.
The bell rang and we had dinner which I did my best to enjoy; roast beef, potatoes with their jackets on and peas. Rice pudding of a kind, and cheese and biscuits.
After dinner I made for my berth, but to my surprise, found it filled with ladies clothes. Well I thought we had misunderstood the fair friend. but l went to the Chief Steward who promised to put things right. So on deck I went, booked my bath and took my chair on deck. This is the time that you find a tip is useful.
Well, on we went, gradually losing sight of land down the river, but finding little around interesting. Tea time arrived and this I did justice. Cold meat and pickles, bread butter and jam, and tea in plenty.
I went to my cabin and found that things had been put right as the husband had made a mistake, he taking his wifes berth and visa versa, so I was content. He is a dark scotch man or whom we have plenty on board. and a decent sort. We went on board and chatted about prospects. Then Mr Collett came on the scene and we started a few tales. As fun commenced people came around and we were soon a dozen. One in particular was a droll kind, he being the funny man, and talking a lot of rot, but it was funny and I laughed at his original cockney twang.
Supper bell and supper of cocoa, biscuits (dog) and cheese.. Then on deck to find evening closing, and lighting placed. vWe passed Folkestone and several places which looked quite quaint and picturesque all lighted up. We are now getting out into the channel, but still remain close to the coast for the night as we do not really start on our journey till tomorrow. 11pm and off to bed. Some of the passengers beginning to feel ill as it is very choppy and prospects or a storm, but I fee! rather well at the present.
Goodnight with thoughts of all.


APRIL 29th

5-30am
I am on deck once more feeling quite well but the sea getting very heavy. The Captain has his oilskins on and the boat is beginning to roll.
Breakfast time 8am. and not so many faces, but we make a good breakfast of porridge, cold ham, and pickles, bread and butter and coffee, plenty of it. I am alright with the steward, so I shall be alright, he will pack me.
On deck once more to find the sea dashing over her sides and rolling badly, but I have made my way to the lee side of the boat under cover. There I sit and smoke and try to sleep, as I feel like it. Nothing to see but water dashing over the deck.
Dinner time; less faces still they all being ill, so I get what I can in a hurry and on top once more, as to be amongst the ill only makes me feel a little queer, but I am quite well, only dull over the eyes. More heavy waves and plenty of sickness. Gradually, our friends go below, and we left keep smiling our best, thinking that we may be next. I have a fair haired boy as a chum. He is about 18 and is just beginning to feel it, but he keeps up as we keep talking, as Barrie knows I can.
Tea time; Very few left and boat rolling fearfully. A few slices of bread and butter and jam, a large cup of tea and on top l get again feeling none too grand, as I understand we are in for it thick. We are now well into the Bay, about as heavy as it can be. Waves are dashing over the bridge, and it is not safe on board so I am retiring to my berth. My word, how she does roll, and you should hear the water rushing over the deck. I might say that my berth is rather near to the engine house and I do not feel the roll so badly and it is comforting to tear her keep banging away.
About 10-30 we have a terrific wave pass right over the bridge. My word you should hear the water rushing down the hatchway into the bunks and the smash of crocks. You would think that dear old Con was on board. My bags and all the other fellows bags are thrown all over the bunks and into the water. It makes you feel that all is up, but we roll on and on!


 

APRIL 30th

6am. arrives. I am feeling seedy, but not ill, and I can get about alright. You should see the water in some of the berths about a foot deep. I wash but feel very hot and go to breakfast. I eat a little and drink a large cup of tea. This I soon lose again I may say but feel all the better. I struggle on deck as it is most difficult to walk up the stairs when it is so rough. Occasionally. the stairs leave your feet and you hang in the air. Glorious experience cut rotten when you're not expecting it. I get on deck just in time to see one of the stewards washed across the deck by a wave, into the iron rails. Now he is in his berth with his head in bandages. I struggle through water to the gangway, find my old pal (deckchair), thanks to Edna once more. It is my saviour. I am giving the biscuits a good trial. and I find they are the best. and far better than dinner. Mr Collett has just given me an orange and I am feeling myself again after two rails on deck. as it is so slippery and rough. Dinner l missed, as it was more trouble to get down to it, and l should want very little.
Afternoon of the 30th. inst. became brighter and the sea smoother, so we are looking for a better time, although the boat rolls very heavily, but we shall be out of the bay tonight.
Tea-time arrives and off we go reeling ourselves again. A big plate of ham and pickles, bread, butter and jam with tea. We did it justice and it was a treat to see all the old faces returning, although very white. The funny man had been ill and he would have liked to have found me looking the same, but I tell him that I'm feeling great and say that I had breakfast by myself on the worst morning. I must be careful, I may fall later.
Back on deck for a walk after tea, the sun shining and the sea calm. Evening is coming on and the first stars since we left old England, but the sea is still heavy. I was told that last night was the heaviest sea seen, by one of the officers, for 15 voyages. Let us hope that the worst is at an end.
We have just passed the lighthouse at cape Varnot, and can see the lights all along the shore, so we can feel safe now for the present till we reach Colombo. I expect that we shall have a calm night, and I hope, a good night's rest. So off to bed for the third time with my thoughts of you all


MAY 1st

6-30am
Glorious morning, sea smooth and sun shining brightly. I am in topping form for breakfast. Porridge, cold ham and pickles, bread and butter. I shall do my best to make a hole in my share and plenty more will do the same as most of the passengers are getting their feet and by the afternoon they should all be about. 500 of them being down an Sunday.
From the deck we can see the Portuguese coast, and soon we shall come quite close. Dinner time; I am off early before I lose my place, as you have to look after yourself. Curry and rice, toast beef, peas and potatoes. sago (yellow) bread and Cheese. whatto.
Day continues to be beautiful and bright and the coast is quite interesting. We see the towns and villages backed by the mountains. In the distance is Cape Rooker with its white lighthouse, and you can see the waves dashing up the rocks to a fearful height - by field glasses - as we are about 30 miles off the coast.
The scenery still continues as we make our way down to tea. This is composed or cold beef and pickles, rock cakes - very fair, bread butter jam and tea.
As evening closes we lose sight of land, but at about 11 o'clock we again see lights from shore and lighthouse.
Before closing perhaps It would be best to give a few tips that I should recommend:- A deck chair, duplicate note-book If you feel a little unwell l have found it best not to go down to meals but stay up on deck and eat biscuits and water, perhaps for a day. Also get about a dozen oranges - or prunes are a good equivalent. This will ward off sickness, and soon you will be able to sleep. Do this as much as you can for the first clay or so, then go for everything you can get. Don't wait for people to pass it along. Get it or it will soon go. We have two girls at our table who would starve if I did not even put it on their plates, but they are young ladies, very much like you at home. A man must bring one dozen boxes or matches and stick to them as they will cost 1/½d for a box instead of for a dozen boxes. Tobacco or cigarettes enough to last till Gibraltar, where it is quite cheap. The accommodation for girls is rather bad and I should not care for any or my fair friends coming out this way, but I must find out better plans as this is rather a poor boat. Jack and Barrie would be able to rough it, but for the girls to tuck in with miners at table l would not relish, although they are good hearted chaps and will do anything for you.

it is now 11p.m. and I am off to bed. A Calm clear night. So Goodnight, my thoughts are with you all


MAY 2nd.

Opens boisterous. Thank goodness we are not in the Bay of Biscay, but the strong wind is very soft and we are nearing Gibraltar where we are to land for about 2 hours at 11a.m. Breakfast - what an appetite - porridge (Bloaters I missed) cold meat, bread and butter with coffee. We are now entering the Straits Or Gibraltar with the rocks on one side and Morroco on the other. We have just passed Tangier and it is getting beautiful, sun shining and nice and warm but l do not find it too warm.
It is just dinner time and we have just arrived at Gibraltar so I am off to pack first, and then the sight-seeing. Dinner: Barley broth, boiled mutton, caper sauce with usual suet pudding and syrup. What ho..
Gibraltar. I have satisfied the inner man and now for a feast for my eyes. Weather is typical. On arrival on dock I find the natives selling fruit and there is a rush. Oranges 9 for 6d, but twice the size of the ones we get at home. I have purchased 6d. Quite enough for me. Now for tobacco. Log Cabin 1/3d per ½lb. Ask Barrie the price he can get it. Grand cigars 3/- for 50, Gunboat cigarettes 16 packets for 1/-, 10 in a packet, equal to Players Navy Cut. But the fun is to see the Stokers get their tobacco. Block tobacco is 1/- 1lb and one chap wrapped a penny in silver paper and got 2lbs. He soon made off. Another put hands down by the traders feet and made off with 8lbs. They dare not follow or they would lose the stall. I think I can easily say I am first to have strawberries. Grand, quite large and ripe. I wish Con could have some, but you must all get some when you come out. I did not go far ashore as we only had one hour there and I missed my friend. A fair man I see at meal times. He tells me it is a beautiful garden city, and the shops are quite bright with colour. Silk shawls at 5/- which would cost a pound in London. Time rolls round, we are all aboard and the anchor up. Tea. cold meat, bread and butter and sponge cake. On deck again, we are gradually turning round and a final look at the rocks, plainly showing how strongly it is fortified and how remarkably everything is laid out for defence. The large battleships in their docks ready to steam out at a moments notice.
As we gradually turn round to start, we get a clear view of 20 or more armoured cruisers, and the soldiers barracks. Quite a glorious picture. They fire a farewell salute from the maxim guns on shore and as we say goodbye, with the sun bathing the rock, how I wish that I had my camera, and how I long that Con and all dear ones belonging to me could see this magnificent sight. A gaze to the left and you can see the high rocks at Morroco, a thousand or more feet in the air, with mist hanging over the tops of the rocks like we see in the pictures of great painters. The evening is drawing to a close. This being the most glorious sight that I have ever seen, and the sea like a park pool.
Night is with us once more, stars shining and the moon throwing beams of light across the water. It is beautiful sitting up, so cool and quiet after the rough lot have gone to bed. And I then think or you all , my own home, our girls and pals, and Mr & Mrs. Coates Each one coming into my mind as we glide along. So now goodnight, as it is 12 o'clock and it will soon be 6a.m. my rising time.

MAY 3rd

6a.m.
Opened beautifully and we had a glorious run before breakfast along the Spanish coast. It appears very rugged and barren, and the sun pouring down on us.
Breakfast - Irish stew, bread butter and tea etc; of which l am able to say l did justice.
Now about things in general - Jack would pass Doctor easily at Tilbury and I am told his arm would not be noticed, so tell Barrie this. Most of the fellows are getting off at Fremantle as farmers, but half of them know very little. Pay is better there but you nave to pay very dearly for lodgings, so there is nothing in it. Dinner time is drawing near as we steam along on the pool and the sun burning. Nearly everyone on board quite well now. vegetable soup, roast beef, potatoes, buttered beans and rice pud.
The afternoon is quite calm and beautiful, we are still quite close to the coast and we can see how barren it is. l am reading a book by a Baroness Orczy ‘The Nest of the Sparrowhawk’ and it is very good. Try and read it, 1/-. The tea bell is ringing and I must close. Tea – Tripe and onions, bread butter and sultana buns. How I think of home made buns, but we fare pretty well I think.
At 7p.m. the sun is setting very rapidly and now I wish that all of you were here to see this beautiful sunset. A magnificent picture, but soon it is lost as night draws on so rapidly, and soon we nave moon and stars shining brilliantly on the water. 12p.m. is soon with us, and a few of the ‘Muffler Toffs’ have commenced with a concert. What rot after our concerts at home.
Home being before me again, but l do long for you all to be here.
Goodnight to you all.


MAY 4th

opens brightly and this is the best part of the day. As I walk along the gangway, I could imagine myself strolling along a pier at some seaside resort. breakfast - Oatmeal porridge, American ash dry etc.
Arriving on deck we have lost sight of land and the wind is getting up and we are among the rough currents. The boat Is now rolling once more, the deck is being flooded once more and passengers are again very ill and being taken down to their berths, especially the fair sex.
Dinner time arrives and the sea is calmer, as we are getting out or the currents of which there are 13 top ones, thus making it so rough. Dinner time arrives and I feel ready, as an orange soon put me right. Rice soup, rabbit and pork, potatoes and cabbage, currant pudding (another old time remembrance.)
Boat has once more stopped rolling and sea calm and every one is now anxious to see the coast of Marseilles, some being decked out in their best. but not I as time is getting late and l am afraid we shall not land. I shall if we have time. The pilot is just coming aboard and we are going right into the docks. it looks very smoky as we advance but I am told we are half an hour tramcar ride away from the city. Tea bell again. Off I go, as I am first sitting and our letters are coming aboard. Cambridge brawn and scones etc; and now that we are anchored, many more coming down to eat again.
Arriving on board, I find that we are not allowed to land so I walk back and get my letters. l find one from home and the other from my own Con. How quickly I could see and hear you all speaking or me, and for the first time did I feel deep loneliness. Quickly I pull myself together as I read how you all have confidence in me. What a feeling. The camera has not arrived yet, but l am to see the purser in the morning. The natives are aboard and alongside and it is amusing to see the girls selling the silk wraps etc; all things I know Con would like to buy, but I believe Colombo is the best port for silk. On the other end of the boat, they are busy unpacking the mails for Australia; about 200 bags and boxes.
Everyone aboard and we are leaving Marseilles, all lighted up now. Various portions I should have liked to photograph, but never mind, I can see it with my own eyes.
Supper as usual and the boat rolling a little again. Also a cold rainy wind. The rain is welcome as it may settle the sea a little. I am off to my berth to get into bed and have a read as my book is really interesting.
Goodnight once more. and nappy thoughts of all.


MAY5th

Opened bright, and at 5 o'clock we had made rapid progress along the Mediterranean. The sea is quite calm and it is rare fun to see the porpoises jumping several yards out or the water. They swim very fast and do their best to keep up with the boat. We leave one lot behind, only to meet more as we progress along the coast, there being about 50 or more on the leeside of the boat. How a little thing will amuse you when you have so little to think of - Coast on one side and porpoise.
Breakfast - Haddock, cold meat etc:
On deck once more. Time appearing to drag as we have no amusements. So I will try to give you a few more tips. - Be sure you bring a tea-pot aboard, plenty of tea, sugar and tin or two or milk. You do not get tea here so don't forget the tea.
We should land at Naples tomorrow for coal, so we are certain to land. All the people on deck are watching a large vessel approaching. We are expecting to meet a sister ship, the 'Otway', from Australia. She is now approaching, and all are along the side of the boat in great excitement. You will find that the least thing makes people excited in these circumstances. She looks a grand boat but the 3rd class are all packed at the stern of the boat. This must be rough on them in a storm as you feel it a great deal more there – the rolling I mean.
We are now passing the Elba Isle where Napoleon was made a prisoner. Bell ringing for dinner - Cod fish, boiled beef, potatoes and carrots with macaroni pudding to follow.
The afternoon passes away as I read my book. It is most interesting and you never know what is turning up in the next chapter. Tea - we get fish cakes, cold meat, scones etc.
I have finished my book and am well satisfied, the end finishing in a most remarkable manner, but of course, alls well that ends well. This book left me contented and satisfied. Off I go to bed as we expect to reach Naples early and I should like to be up early to see the sun rise. So.. Goodnight No. 5, my old home, thoughts of all


MAY6th

Up with the mist as all hands are busy preparing to land. Pilot is now in charge or our boat and we are steaming into the harbour. On our right Mount Vesuvius and on the left 3000ft up is the barracks. It is quite picturesque, just the right thing for photography, but camera has not arrived. Gendarmes are now coming aboard as they Look after the traders when they come aboard. We are now alongside two coal boats and our engines have now stopped. We are to coal here and a nice dirty job it is, but we are to land after breakfast. I have just arranged for a party of us to go ashore, with an official guide.
Breakfast of porridge, cold meat etc; and on deck once more feeling in great form to go ashore.
Our party are together and we board the tender. Gendarmes on the boat to look after us, we start, pay our 2/- (just for the return fare for 100 yards) and run to shore. While we steam along, a small boat is fastened alongside, and we have music and dancing, then you begin to think of the pictures one sees of Italians in their coloured shawls etc.
We are soon ashore and find the docks in repair. Into the streets, mind you, don't fall over that tramline, or get your foot caught between the bricks - jump that pool or water - then a heap of filth. However, on we go. The streets are so narrow and so very picturesque. Perhaps it's a good thing I don't have my camera or l should lose the boat. The shops are like tunnels and have no windows, but you walk through a kind or gateway. How your imagination works. You can imagine vile cruel robberies, foul murder of travellers etc. Above these dingy holes are flats where the poor, idle, dirty inhabitants live. The people are small, dirty and a lazy lot, lounging about, dark in complexion and very murderous in look. They drive bullock, mule and donkey wagons, the animals being cruelly tied alongside each other. The cart, about a yard and a half long with two large wheels packed up to excess, till it almost pulls the mule off it's feet. You can imagine when you see the belly - band is only about 8 inches off the end of the shafts, but the poor miserable beasts struggle along and the lazy driver and man lie on top, no matter how large the load is. But on we go, as there is so much to see. We stumble along these dingy holes, it being so quaint to see the Oxen wagons. Then we pass beautiful statues, only to take a passing glance as we hurry on to the new Jesus Church, 450 years old. Here we find the reason for Italy being so poor, yet so rich. We enter the church which is all marble and most of it is polished. We see the Altar of exquisite marble and bronze, and in various parts you see other altars of various saints, each with a few people in prayer. All round you see confession boxes with the fat old priest sitting in them. At a few, you see ladies making their confession through a small trap-door at the side, speaking into his ear. But the paintings.... Oh, you can well imagine my feelings, gazing at some or the most beautiful work I have had the pleasure to look upon. Some would be too large to put on our Art Gallery walls and so many by the same artist, ‘Messinagor’. But we must leave to see more wonders. Outside, we find it not pouring with rain, but sheets of water coming down. I return to
the church for a last look at the paintings.
It is now only pouring with rain, so we start to St Clara church.  This we find along more dirty holes.  We pull back a tarpaulin sheet and walk into the church.  The church, again all marble, with the main altar of bronze and marble, so exquisite it is hard to describe.  The pictures are also exquisite, but they are not on the ceiling, as this church has a large dome.  It also has an orchestra, composed of strings, cornets etc; and have just heard them play, - the first bit of music since I left home.
On we go, as the rain has almost ceased, to the barracks.  To reach this place, we go up a great incline by train, for which we pay sixpence return.  You would like to see the roses in bloom.  Oh how I would have loved to send you all a bunch.  50 roses for a shilling.  Alighting from the train, we go to the forts.  From this height we can see all over Naples and the harbour – what a sight.  355 churches and only half a million people to keep it up.  This surely is the ruin of Italy and it’s downfall.  Just fancy the number of priests, almost 5,000.  Monks are everywhere, begging – not I should say for the poor.
From this high place, we can see in the distance, Mount Vesuvius, smoking.
Again back to the train and down to the station.  From here we make for the palace.
On our arrival, an officer beckons to me, and points for me to follow, with policeman.  Off I go by myself – where to I don’t know.  First escorted by one officer to one room, then by another to another room, and so on through six rooms and landings, all of them beckoning and bowing.  I arrive at last in a beautiful room where I am told to sit down, by motion of officers hands.  I made a guess at my visit up here that it was a pass for our party of 15, this being the only thing that I could think of.  Presently, I was ushered into a room to another gentleman.  His English was very bad so I wrote it down and got the pass, thank goodness.  If I had known what it was all about in the first place, I should have quite enjoyed the ceremony.  Back to my party with a very proprietary air and away I took them, round the palace of 52 rooms.
First reception room not very grand, but two nice paintings Of Nicholas 1st and his grandparents, and one of the King and Queen.  I do not believe in royalty so do not care.
No.2.  Another about the same as 1st, but with tapestry which is quite beautiful.  Then along the passage and we look over the balcony to see the marble staircase that the King and Queen use on State occasions.  From here we get a good view of Naples.  On we go to more rooms.  Better furniture, but I don’t think it is used when royalty is here.  If it is, it’s a poor show.  The pictures however are all wonders, and on, tell Lolian that I have seen some porcelain.  How she would have gone mad.  They said that it was fourteenth century, but I can hardly think it was as it was so wonderful and pretty, like Dresden.
At last we reached the lounge rooms.  Here the furniture is better and pictures etc; again fine.  Then we came to the ballroom.  This room is not so beautiful as I should have imagined, rather large, but no paintings, and only the throne to sit on.  How many people tried to sit on this seat, and I should say that quite a lot succeeded, although it is watched most carefully.  This room is lighted by candles, not electricity, and very large pendants hang from the ceiling, reflecting the light.
More rooms, the whole becoming quite a maze and bewildering, so you must all make your minds to see the rest when you come out – but you must see it.
From here we cross to the Palace church, across the terrace.  Rather small and not too elaborate, but the altar is of pure silver, another terrible waste and unnecessary, but I must confess, quite beautiful.  This is another dome church, in which is the royal pew.  We leave here for Royal Theatre.  This is rather gay, but small, as it is private.  We have the box at the back, with its silver curtain and upholstered in red plush and gold hangings.
From here we left to return to the boat, and get a good stock of fruit, which is very cheap.  Sixteen oranges for sixpence, Cherries one shilling for about two pounds.  I am first again I think to taste these this year.  Well, some of us returned to the boat, but some of the fellows were left behind, as they wanted to see the dancing girls, - not worth seeing by any moral person.
We got back just in time for dinner, and I was very hungry.  We were only able to get wine of poor quality, although we had been told that you could get wine  which was very good quality in Naples.  We tried to get a bottle of brandy, as I hear that it is needed through the Red Sea, owing to fever, but 8 shillings was the cheapest, and that for only a small bottle.
Naples leaves me with wonderment, the people being dirty and idle, one for instance I saw, sitting in his barrow with his umbrella up waiting for the rain to stop.
Well on to the old boat I go and have a look round the traders.  Most of them sell very trashy stuff, but if you look into them cheap.  Jewellery it is very pretty, but remarkably dear.  Bracelets 6d, pendants 1/6d
In one of the corners was a man selling oil paintings, his portraits of old fishermen and women, also boys and monks, were very fine.  I was riveted to the spot, and just before he packed up Senor Marcarcar sold me two beauties for 7/6d.  One is 15”x10” – the head of a young girl, about the most life-like painting that I have ever seen.  She is all smiles, and the eyes speak to you.  The other is of a young boy, with cigarette in his mouth.  You can almost see him blow smoke from his mouth.  You will be able to judge from the fuss I am making of them.  I hope that Con will bring me a few more when she comes out. 
The anchor weighed once more and we are off for Taranto.  Goodbye to Naples….
It is just 4o.clock and we are due at the next port tomorrow.  Tea – cold meat etc;  The evening is chilly as the atmosphere is damp, but it is quite pleasant, the sea like a huge lake, hardly a wave can be seen.  The night is soon with us, but the sunset is ideal, the pretty colours reflected by the sea.  Night is bright with clear sky, stars large and brilliant, and the moon like our harvest moon we get at home, so bright.
11p.m. again and one day nearer the goal.  Goodnight.

 

 

MAY 7th

I arrive on deck to find a child’s funeral is about to take place.  Lilian may have noticed this child.  The family had hard work getting her through, but they were starving in London.  The service was short, and all that is necessary.  The body is wrapped up in canvas and weighted, then placed on a plank of wood over the side of the vessel with the union Jack over.  The engines are stopped, the bell tolled and we leave the poor little mite off Mount Etna.  Rather sad, but not many on deck.
It is bright and the sea calm, and we have just passed Messina where they had the terrible earthquake a short time ago.
Breakfast – We have oatmeal porridge with milk – they say – but I have not seen milk since my breakfast with Lilian in London.  Liver (I left) and bacon (good) Cold beef etc; Once more on deck to see the snow covered mountains on our left, the scenery in parts cultivated, and in others, very barren.  This kind of scenery continues until 12, when we cross Taranto Bay and lose sight of land once more for a short time, the monotony only being broken by a few doves flying aboard.  Dinner – macaroni soup, roast pork, apple sauce etc; Plum pudding, - at least it has the name – and it fills up so why trouble. While we are steaming along the calm sea I think of Naples once more, and I quite forgot one of the chief sights.  It was a beautiful arcade, all of polished marble.  The roof all glass and the shops exquisite.  The shops comprise tailors, hairdressers, photographers, who exhibit some beautiful portraits, life size.  One a beauty, of the actress you see in ‘The Fall of Troy’ at the Picture House.  I spoke to our guide and he called her a Gaiety Girl, whatever that is.  At all events, the photo was very good. Speaking of the arcade, with its very large dome of glass, it’s large marble pillars, the milliners shops with various peculiar coloured, trimmed hats, ladies hosiery, beautiful materials.  But how expensive everything is.  Liptons tea, 1/6d per lb at home 4/- per lb here, sugar 8d per pound, condensed milk 1/6d per tin, salt 6d per lb.  So don’t forget to bring tea, sugar, teapot, biscuits, deck chair, ( writing paper you get free on board), towel, spoons, map.  Warm clothing up to Port Said.  Don’t think that you are hardened, better to feel warm.  Big thick warm coat for the Mediterranean Sea.  The air is full of moisture and it is surprising how damp your clothes get at night.  Do not forget this, as pneumonia, rheumatics, and fever, play havoc with the passengers.  After leaving Naples, anyone ill is immediately put into the isolation Hospital.  We have 16 ill on board, but none of infectious nature as yet.  My news will get a little scanty, as we now do three days at sea.  Taranto we reached at 7p.m. on Sunday, and it tis not a safe place to land, but we took the risk and had trouble, but the sailors had two pistols, which they fired and my word, how they made the boatman frightened.  I hear that Taranto is very similar to Naples only more modern.  The square flats with each building of different design, but they have beautiful squares laid out with flowers all in full bloom.  How I think of home, and I often wish some of you could enjoy this trip.   How Con and I would enjoy it together, both being of the same tastes and enjoying the same pleasures.
Well Goodbye to our last port of Europe.  We have just taken the last of the 2,238 mail bags aboard and the deck is filled up with the


MAY 8th

We have started on a 936 miles out to open sea.  The sea you cannot imagine, it is like a sheet of glass and very misty, and at various times we pass one of the Grecian Islands and can see the top of the range of mountains covered with snow.  It is very pretty to watch, but you see so much of it that it lacks interest and most of us will not be sorry to land at our destination.
We are all beginning to settle down to our surroundings and I think less of the surroundings that I detested from the first.  If girls keep themselves to themselves and be pleasant, they are all right, but I should think that flirting is very dangerous.  If a girl brings plenty of sewing and books to read, all is well, but if they are not careful they are soon the talk of the boat.  Girls should make things right with the chief stewardess, give a few shillings to her and always ask her to take tea, I mean your private tea, with you.  Make a friend of them and give the men a rest.  I have seen enough to make me afraid of my fair friends, and men who travel are usually sowing their wild oats.  If you have any money with you, put it in a body-belt or purse, next to your flesh.  If you put it in your cabin you will very soon lose it.  Only put a few shillings in your pocket at a time, never more, and never take your belt off, or away it goes.  One fellow pulled his belt  off to go in to Naples, told no-one about it, but it was gone, with 57 pounds, when he got back.  Another 10 pound and several small items, so people can’t be too careful

 

MAY 11th

Brought us to the Suez canal, after three days at sea.  We were disappointed to hear that we could not land at Port Said owing to smallpox, which is very bad there.
We arrived at 6.30p.m. last night, and it was very amusing to see t he natives loading our boat with 3,000 tons of coal, as we have now 10 days journey without a break.  The port we could see very little of, but we could see Liptons and Pears soap have both got big warehouses there.  The streets now begin to look more tropical, each side being lined with trees, and when the electric light is on, you can imagine you see dear old home.
The real sight of Port Said is the coaling.  Here you see 304 400 natives carrying the coal aboard.  They are composed of women mostly, men and boys.  To hear the monotonous singing and then see the load they carry on their shoulders, about half a cwt at a time, sometimes more.  Their chief stands and thrashes them with a big whip, and you should see the speed at which they unload and carry it on to our boat.  They run up one plank, 20 or 30 at a time, each with a big load, shouting a t the top of their voices to each


other.  They then pitch it down the shoot, and down the other plank, at top speed they run, then up again.  I have never seen folk work so hard in my life, but I hope that some of you may see it for yourselves.
When I arrived on deck the following morning, I was surprised to find that we were on our way down the canal.  On each side you can see the land or the sand of the desert and how it doea make your eyes ache as it reflects the light so strongly.
On we go.  On our left, it is one huge desert with nothing to see except  three natives running to keep up with the boat.  They are running to get money or potatoes thrown to them.  This they kept up for nigh on twenty miles, but very little they got.  On the right of the boat it is more cultivated, and most interesting.  As we steam along, we see in the distance the range of sand rocks.  The hot sun cracks  and the wind scatters them over the country, thus we get the desert.  You can see parts where it is being cultivated, usually close to the station.  Here we find a large bungalow surrounded by a verandah and with large trees all round.  At the back are the native quarters.  Usually you find the station master either French or English, and to see the way they enjoy themselves makes me wish we could stay with them.  The animals that they keep reminds you of the tropical climate, and here we see the camel at work, also mules, donkeys and goats, which they keep pretty well of.  We pass station after station till 2.30 p.m. when we arrive at Suez, which is quite a large place with many beautiful houses.  The streets are laid out in squares, lined with their peculiar trees, most of them in bloom or bearing rich coloured berries.  Here you find the natives throw themselves down on the footpath and go to sleep.  The women cover themselves entirely over as the boat passes, but we see very few of them as it is midday and they are not allowed out.  Here you begin to put a few less clothes on, and thinner, but I have felt it quite as hot in Cornwall, but you know that I am fond of the heat, and when I think it will be about as warm in Australia, I feel that I am pleased that I am going.  I have only just taken off my thick clothes and put on flannels, but still keep my long pants and thick undervest on.  We gradually get warmer in the next 12 days, so I shall probably have to take them off.
How enjoyable this trip has been to me, and I cannot imagine that I have been left home for two weeks.  I think that anyone can do this trip, but elderly people I should recommend to take the train to Marseilles, then they miss the Bay of Biscay and the gulf of Lyons.  However, they say that we had it very rough in the Bay, and it is not always so rough, but in the Gulf it is always bad owing to the large number of currents, but it only lasts about four hours, and you do see a lot of scenery.  The train fare from Charing Cross to Marseilles is 3 pounds and you save almost a week’s journey, but of course you miss a great deal of the beautiful scenery at Gibraltar.
Along the Suez and at Port Said, you find how disgusting the natives are compared to the white race, and one quickly realises the drastic measures that have to be taken are justified.  I myself would not have believed it, but my eyes do not deceive me, and I am afraid I couldnot respect any black race in their savage state.  Even if they were civilised, I wonder whether it would be possible to get rid of their attitude towards women.
You will see long before we reach Port Said, how quickly the evenings draw to a close, and by the time you reach Suez, the sun sets and it is dark in less than an hour.
We left Suez at dinner time, and started on our journey into the Red Sea.  My word, how warm.  A perfect sampleof the world below.  I trust that we shall not meet any of the monsoon winds, as they say they are terrible.  The wind makes the boat its centre and blows constantly, so of course the boat plunges about and rolls always, making it impossible to be on deck, as the wavews dash over the decks.  For this reason I am not anxious for a Monsoon. 
Once more referring to the sunset.  I saw the sun level with the horizon, and in less than 2 minutes, it was lost to sight.  Then for half an hour you get the most beautiful tropical colours imaginable.  Pea green, red, orange, in fact the whole sky a beautiful painter’s palette, only to be seen for a short time.  To paint a picture to perfection, you would have to be a ‘Turner’ who did many of these sunsets.  Then to see the moon rise is another treat.  It is lovely to watch it.  At first it is like a huge ship on fire, and reminds one of the scene of the sunset in ‘The Corsican Brothers’.
Now about the heat of The Red Sea.  It is terrible on this boat, as we are so packed.  About 750 3rd class passengers.  It is a perfect sin to allow so many on so small a boat, and the sanitary conditions so bad it is a wonder that we have not had fever or smallpox on board before now.
On Sunday we had another death.  A child of fourteen months.  This child was rather delicate and not of right senses, put it puts a fearful gloom over the boat.  Then to make things worse, the engine stopped at midday, and we were lucky to have a cool breeze blowing, as we drifted for about seven hours, and left our course by fifteen miles.  While we rested in this heat, it gave us a chance to see a few sharks, and some were very large, about 20 feet long I should think.  We tried to catch them but did not get a bite, so was unable to fulfil my promise.  Just thinking of heat makes one perspire.  The best illustration I can give, is to put on a bathing suit and dive into the water, then take off waterproof cap, and there you have it, so you can imagine the heat.  To wear clothes is almost impossible.  At one time I would have thought this bunkum, but I don’t now.  You would laugh to see it rolling off me.  One handkerchief is just large enough to give one wipe and then hang out to dry. I don’t think that I shall put much flesh on for this two weeks, and it makes you feel a bit off, but I have some Eno’s salts to pull me along.
Take my tip, don’t eat too much meat after you leave Naples.  Nearly all the passengers have prickly heat, caused by the blood being too rich and not taking salts.

 

MAY 16th

Tuesday.
We are still going, and I have had the promise of the loan of a camera for the few films I have with me, so I hope to get a few snaps oat Colombo with the five friends I have onboard.  These are about the pick of the boys, or men rather.  Con knows the sort I like. A notch or two above.
Notice has just been put up that we are to have sports tomorrow, Wednesday the 17th.  About time we had something to break the monotony of 9 days without seeing land.  How I long for a walk.  I tried washing, but the water is scarce and I found it too hot to finish, so I have got one of the Italian stewards to do it for me for a shilling.  Sewing I can manage better.  Fancy me with a needle and thread putting all my buttons on tighter, better than any girl I am sure, they wont come off now.  I have also repaired my flannel coat pocket again and can hardly see where it was torn at Dawlish.  It took me almost all of one morning, much to my friend’s amusement.  I think they enjoyed it as much as I did.
The food is just about the same old fashioned method and stuff.  Sleep is hard to get as it is so warm.  You get your deck chair or mattress and blanket on deck at night and wrap up, as it is rather dangerous to sleep on deck at night, but it is almost impossible to go below, as the berth is like a hot bake house, so I am compelled to turn out and face the danger, but I wrap up my throat in my silk muffler, and pull the blanket round me an try to sleep, but I get very little, so I lie and think of you all.  How pleasant it is, so quiet, moon and stars so bright.  Some quite different and not to be seen at home.  It is here we see the Southern Cross for the first time, and here the farmers cart and horses.

MAY 17th

Wednesday
Still calm sea, no land and engine still going.  I expect you will hear that we are overdue and wonder what is up, but we are still on the go, and hope to see Colombo on Saturday.
Sports..  What excitement..  We are to have a portion of the top deck of first class.
They open with a tug of war for ten stone and under, but it is too hot for me to try my hand at pulling or running, so I am going to look on.  Each event caused much amusement, especially the ladies races.  The men’s (single) 50 yards sprint was run in very quick time, 6 seconds, and was run by the fair boy I mentioned in the first portion of my letter May 7th.  He is a dark horse, and beat a champion runner, - or did he?  He is also in the final of the three legged race, to be finished next week.  Well, it has caused plenty of talk and a little bad feeling.  A race for 5pounds at Colombo is talked of.
Another tropical sight is to see the flying fish, some about 9 to 12 inches.  They look like polished silver, and fly from 50 to 200 yards out of the water.  They start from the water like a shower of rain, and away they go with a buzz, and fly at a tremendous rate over the water.
Thursday opens bright, and sea calm, with a nice cool breeze blowing on the starboard side.
Today we have another upset, by a young man of nineteen, without any of his relatives on board, dying, and this being the first death of a young man.  It was a sorrowful sight and I should advise anyone with any feeling, not to watch a burial at sea.  It is ghastly.  He was only ill for two days with pneumonia.
I have just had to repair my chair, as a friend of mine sat rather heavily on it, but I managed it quite well.
Friday and Saturday were rather dull, and all feeling tired of the journey, and longing to reach Colombo.

MAY 21st

Sunday
Found us in the harbour of Colombo.  It was just 2am when they woke me up, as I have been sleeping on deck for about ten days.  A gruff voice, shouting as loud as he could , woke me up with a start, for I was in the way of the steel wire cable for fixing to the water buoys when we anchor.  The instant the boat was at anchor the natives came aboard for the washing.  This they do very cheaply.  A man’s suit for 2pence and return it the same day.  Then as it grew light, we could see our coal and water  coming out to us, with the natives laying on top of the coal bags.  Each port has a different way of loading the boat.  In this port, instead of carrying it up a plank. they liftit from one to the other on stages up the side of the boat, and by this system, with about 300 hands, they put about 1200 tons of coal on board, the water being pumped up from the water boats into our water tanks.  I believe I have a negative of the men loading our boat, also a few of Colombo.
    By 6am I was dressed and ready to go ashore for breakfast, and so went ashore by the first tender.  Away we go past th e Torpedo and Dreadnought British ships, three in number,  Here the sailors wave and shout.  Then we pass native bom bom boats, most peculiar in shape.  They are very long and narrow, being only ten inches wide, just wide enough for their legs to go down between the sides, on which they pack large bunches of bananas.  On the opposite side, supported by two wooden beams is a large thick piece of wood or trunk of a tree.  This is about 6ft. from the side of the boat and thus balances any heavy weight put on them.  These boats are propelled by oars.  In 15 minutes we reach the landing stage, a modern construction, the entrance being of brick construction and similar to a British railway station, with the customs officers on each side.  On we go past the English police dressed in white clothes, also natives waiting to act as guides, but on I go into the main thoroughfare.  This is the British part.  On the left is a statue of Queen Victoria, sitting on the throne, with crown and sceptre.  This is of white marble and is  to commemorate the 1897 Diamond Jubilee.  On the same side is the Victoria Hotel and Liptons.  The Hotels sell everything, and have a large number of shops inside, with natives to wait on you.  You may go and sit down in any of the verandahs, but you are pestered to buy.  You need not buy of course, and it is amusing to see the goods, especially the art metal goods, the silks and lace.
    I pass further along, pestered by the natives, who want to take me for a ride in a rickshaw, but I prefer to walk as I am tired of sitting down, so on I go with the native policemen lashing t he natives off, as they are not allowed to molest British people.
   The native men are mostly finely built, with plenty of muscle and of shapely form.  They are about 5 ft 6 inches average height and their skins are beautifull, so smooth and silky.  Most of them are perfect and their skin was admired by everyone, but when you walk round the native part you see some ghastly sights, some of them with hardly a vestige of flesh on their bones, too wretched to describe.  You see scarcely any women about.  I was told that they are locked up for a time in day-time.  They take great care that none of their women are interfeared with by other natives.  The children are charming, and have beautiful hair, black, curley rather long and moppy.  They are mostly plump with beautiful skin, not too black.  Their eyes are dark, large and very bright.  What a good time you can have with just a few cents to give them.  I have never seen men make more fuss of children before.  However, several children have been maimed and had either feet or arms off.  I was told simply to become beggars and gain sympathy from the white men.
   I had walked round the place for an hour when I met one of the passengers from our boat, he was going to India as he is an Inspector of Police in Calcutta, so had got off at Colombo to finish  his journey by train.  He had seen a great deal of this Island and offered to take me round some of the places.  First we went to Cinnamon Gardens, a wonderful place, but not laid out with flowers, but a forest of trees.  Some were most peculiar, from the branches here and there, another branch would run down to the ground and take root, thus making the place one large tree.  Then on the ground grew the sensitive plant, the leaves open like a book, and if you touched them would close together and remain so for several hours.  I was told the plant lived on insects.
    Along some of the main streets grow large trees, the branches meeting in the centre of the road, and covered with beautiful, large dark salmon coloured flowers.  Next we went to a Buddha temple.  Here all have to take your boots off, much to the annoyance of t he European ladies, who do not have button hooks with them, but it is a mark of respect, so we took them off and went inside.  I was surprised to hear how near the Buddha religion was to our own, and quite as true I should say.  The whole story of his life is told in pictures round the altar.
   You enter the door of the temple, and facing you up a long aisle is the altar, with a large statue of Buddha laying down on his one elbow.  Round this is beautiful tapestry set out in expensive diamonds, rubies and other most precious stones.  By his side are various images of saints, I suppose giving their offerings, and all round Buddhas tomb are placed beautiful flowers.  The altar with the exception of the tomb with its jewels and gold would give you the impression it was a roman catholic church.  The outside is all beautiful stone carvings of figures of exquisite quality, but rather weather worn.  To give you a better description of the church or temple, I have seen too much to explain and would advise all who come this way not to miss it.
  From here we went to the fruit market to buy some fruit and on one side is a modern construction similar to vegetable market at home with their stalls.  On the other side of the road are native fruit shops or at home we would say gateways.  They look dirty but the natives look clean.  I buy green oranges 26 for 1/- after tasting two or three.  These were sweet and tasted similar to limes.  I did not get any bananas or pineapples as there were too many insects about them, and I was not anxious to buy smallpox or fever.  They sold oranges 7”X5” with peel 1” thick, but I did not care for the taste of them, they appeared all thick skin, even when you quartered it you had to peel them again.  The quarters would be 5”X2” so you can guess the size.
On we went, back to the British quarters and main streets.  They are laid out splendidly.  It is now 11o-clock and the sun very hot, but we make for the breakwater.  Here we find natives at religious service, worshipping the sun or other beliefs.  Some of the men are fine specimens, but the women, I cannot say a great deal in their favour.  Some only about 14, carrying their children and wearing ornaments in their noses.  They wear larger ones in their ears if they are married, and if their husbands are dead, only a small one in nose and ear.  It appears that they have their nose and ears pierced when they get married.  I have just seen a party returning from a wedding service.  They were singing and dancing along the streets and making a fearsome noise.  I was unable to get a snapshot, but I have taken several of bullock wagons and other scenery.  Referring to the breakwater, I was told that it took thirty years to build, being washed away by the heavy seas caused by the monsoon winds.  We walked along for some distance but the breakers became so rough it was dangerous to go on.  Inside, the harbour was quite smooth and calm, but outside was very rough.  I tried to get a snapshot of one wave so it may give you some idea.
We returned to the landing stage by boat, and then went into the Victoria Arcade.  Here we went into one of the shops for some cigars.  While we chatted they put the electric fan on and brought us two bottles of soda water.  Here I bought 100 grand cigars for 4/-  My friends say that they are the best cigars that they have ever smoked.  While here we were begged to look at other things, including Maltese Lace.  This was very cheap and so beautiful that I could not resist buying 5 yards of lace and a collar for Con.  I should have liked to have got more, but I was reminded that I want the money, so I retired.  This is the place for silk and lace etc; silk shirts about 6/- each.
We made for dinner at the Bristol Hotel.  This is the best place of its kind in Colombo and is straight from the station on the left hand side.  You go under the verandah, down the steps and sit down on the lunge chairs.  They start the fans and the natives persuade you to look at their goods, as inside this Hotel are all kinds of shops, and you may buy anything, but we only went for dinner.
Punctually at 1 o clock lunch was ready.  This was the first meal that I have enjoyed since I left you all.  I send you the menu card and I tried everything except curry and rice which was too hot.  My word, I smiled to look at myself through a mirror at the side.  You would laugh to see the black waiter at the back of my chair, with a large comb on his head like a coronet.  He is dressed all in white.  The comb on his head is another sign of respect and they would not he allowed to serve at the table without either a turban or comb on their head.  From here we had to make our way back to the landing stage after a most enjoyable time.  Their mode of transport is with bullock carts.  I do not care much for their women folk, but I expect it is because I am not used to their natural dress and ways, but it is a delightful place, but here again the men are very immoral in their quarters and very dirty, and I should advise all girls and women to give the native quarters the go-by, as it is nothing but filth.  The temples, gardens and Hotels find plenty of amusement after a rickshaw ride.
I wished my friend goodbye and promised to write to him, then I boarded the launch to go back to our boat the Ormuz.  She is a dirty boat and I am told that she is thirty hands short.  Well we got aboard to find the old crock covered with coal dust and those who had remained on the boat, like sweeps.  I quickly made for my berth to put my things away safely before I lost them, then after a wash made for tea.  We started very punctually to time as we have a lot to make up for that we lost in the Red Sea.  Three of the fellows nearly got left behind, and only just got aboard as she was drifting along.  However, three Danes were left behind and I don’t know how they would get on.
We had not gone far when we got into rough water, which quickly made some of them ill.  The rough seas kept up, also heavy winds for 2 or 3 days.

MAY 24th

  The sports were concluded and I am pleased to say that the few friends I have made, as luck will have it, all fair people, I should say men, won 4 firsts and 1 second out of five events.  The best bit of all was the final heavy weight tug of war.  My word, what pulling, each side winning a pull, then came the last pull.  My big tall scotchman tossed up for his scotch team and lost the toss, so they had to pull up-hill.  They got to their marks and the word ‘go’ was given.  Each side could not move the other, then the bow of the boat rose up and my friends team began to lose, but they did not quite go over the mark and then the stern went up, and we shouted to Andy’s (The scotchman) team, to pull while they had the chance.  This they did and won.  Andy had made up his mind to win this prize, and I should have been very sorry if he had lost.  He is a very decent fellow, fair, clean shaven, slim and about 6’ 6” tall.  He is an architect and builder and I believe his father was on the Glasgow council, but they failed.  He said he was pleased we had met as we are going both to Sydney, and if all goes well we shall take a cottage as soon as we can and live together.
Well, on the 25th May, the sea became rougher, and on Friday the 26th. The waves were dashing over her bows and bridge.  Then at intervals it would rain sheets of water.  First it would blow, then in the distance you would see a heavy mist coming along, then in a minute or two it is upon you, pouring for all it is worth, and over the sides of the boat you can scarcely see a few yards.  You seem to be surrounded by water.  This continues for half an hour, then fine again, then rain, and so on through the day..
    At night we passed the ‘Osterly’ and by what I could see of her, she is a grand boat, riding the waves and running along so smoothly, while we bobbed up and down like a cork.
    Saturday opened with bright sunshine and continued to be fine, but we are informed that we have a suspicious case of disease on board.  They have barriered the isolation hospital off and anyone can be vaccinated free if you care to, but so far I have declined as the vaccination stuff could not be fresh and of course may take very bad ways.  We shall soon know what it is when we arrive at Freemantle, as the quarantine officials come aboard, and there will be a thorough examination.  All letters would then have to be disinfected, as our cargo is nothing else but mails, so don’t be afraid of this letter.

MAY 30th

Brought us to our first Australian port, Freemantle, and after the long sea trip from Colombo we all felt greatly relieved.  The day before, instructions were posted up that the quarantine officers would be aboard for passengers inspection at 6.15am.  This meant that we were all to get up at 5am at which time it was quite dark with a wintry breeze.  Really quite refreshing after the heat we had been through.  We were all up, some rather excited as to whether we should be allowed to land, others getting their hand bags on deck.    Two of the latter being of my few acquaintances made aboard.  The doctors arrived at appointed time and we all passed them.  Then they went to see our suspicious case and at 9am the yellow flag was lowered and the boats and steamers began to come from the shore.  This was received with hearty cheers.  The baggage men quickly landed and made arrangements for the luggage being delivered.
At breakfast I made for the letters and found one from my brother with the good news that I should be able to see him.  (this letter I have sent on)
We took the ferry boat to Freemantle and it was a treat to be amongst English people again, no worrying or molesting, so away we went to the railway station to book for Perth.  We got into the train and found, not the luxurious carriages we get at home, but just a cushioned seat and the glass windows let down.  Anyway, away we rattled.  We were thoroughly shook about, much to our amuzement, as it acted as a wake-up draught.  Soon we were able to get a look at the country, and I felt quite at home.  The sun was shining and very warm, and we could see the small houses with their verandahs and galvanised roofs (only a very few have tiled roofs).  They were all of the bungalow fashion, and built among the trees and wild scrub.  The place was very sandy and barren, but it was my new home and I was satisfied.  As we banged along you could see beautiful walks through the woods, and you are at liberty to walk where you will.  It did so remind me of our last walk.
After about three quarters of an hour of this lovely scenery we reached Perth.  Before I left the station, I wired my brother, then we made for the city.  This was very beautiful and very clean.  Over all the footpaths are galvanised iron verandahs, the buildings being some 5 or 6 stories high and mostly of stone with ornamental figures about.  It is a modern, up to date city, but the tramway is not up to our standard, only being single-decked and somewhat of the kind you see at Llandudno or other sea-side places.  The shops are not dressed quite up to our standard also, but by the price of boots, the seem to run about the same prices.
We had a very good dinner for 1/- a head.  Roast Pork, chip potatoes, cabbage etc; with stewed pears and cream to follow.  It was very good and we all enjoyed it after the things we have had on board the Ormuz.  We bought some tea and provisions for our afternoon snacks and then made our way round the city.  It is not a large place, the worst features being the wretched telephone wires and poles.  I then went to the G.P.O  and sent the parcel off to Con, then had a walk through the park, then down to the river Swan, where we took the boat back to the Ormuz.  This was a ten mile steam up the river, and it reminded me a great deal of the river Dart in Devonshire, but the river is a little wider and the houses newer.  We reached our boat at 3.30 and she set sail at 4.30  After tea we were treated to a glorious sunset, about the best of the journey.
Wednesday brought us round the coast to Albany, but we did not call, but made our way though the Australian bight where it is nearly always rough, but today it is very calm and we hope that it will continue to be so.

JUNE 1st

Thursday
Opened bright with a calm sea, but as the evening set in it gradually became rougher, and by night time the waves are rolling over the deck and a hurricane blowing.  However, we are now fairly good sailors and hardly take any notice until it is time to turn in, then we have to fight our way back against the wind and water from one of the fellows berths, where we had been playing cards, but we got back safely and made for bed.  Well I must say, the rocking was a little too severe, and what with the banging of the engines and the bottles and glasses and boxes falling about the cabin floor, it made it difficult to sleep, but morning came and we were still going.  It is rare fun to see the stewards carrying the plates on a rough day like  today.  You can never say when they are going to drop the whole armful of plates of dinner down your back, then when they are on the table, a glass of water may topple over your plate and spoil your dinner.  Well, through it all we are looking forward to seeing Adelaide tomorrow.

JUNE 2nd

Saturday
I may say the china and pottery I saw, I did not think a lot of, looking rather poor class and I think expensive.  Clothes I think are about the same price, but I have not had a close look at the goods to see what they are made of.
When we left Fremantle, I was told that I could share a 2nd class cabin with my friend, Norrborough, so I accepted, and I think it is a great improvement on my stifling box which I have had for the last month.

JUNE 3RD

We arrived at Adelaide about 5 o clock in the morning of JUNE 3RD and about 9 o clock we went ashore.  Our boat had run right up to the landing stage, therefore we had only to step from the boat onto the railway station.  We took the train, and while we were waiting, we saw a little rough riding, a man trying to catch a young colt, but he did not succeed while we waited for our train to start.
At last we made a move, and on both sides it was rather barren land, but this improved when we got over the river.  We then began to see the bungalow cottages, and I must say they looked a treat in their crudely made streets with large woods at the back of them.  Soon we arrived at Adelaide, and it is a grand city.  The whole place is practically all white stone and its streets are twice as wide as Birmingham’s Corporation Street, and have nice trees and tropical plants growing along the centre.
The price of things are about the same as at home, and I hardly think it worth while bringing many, especially when one can buy so cheaply at Colombo, which is about the cheapest plae one can buy at.  The fruit of Australia is lovely and also very cheap.  William pears 3pence a pound, good sweet apples at 2 pence a pound which you would have to pay 6 pence or 8 pence for at home.  Oranges 8 for a shilling, but the fruit is all finer and better.  Grapes were 3 pence for a pound, so we got a stack to take back to the boat.  We were not allowed much time as we started for Melbourne at 4pm.
Imagine large square white buildings and square cut roads, very wide and long, and you get an idea of Adelaide.

JUNE 4th

On Sunday, we slowly steamed round to Melbourne and arrived safely about 6 o clock on June the 4th Whit Monday.  Again we were alongside the quay and railway station.  By 9am we were on the train to Melbourne.  This was not far and in 15 minutes we were at a large station, and a very up to date place it is.  You do not need to ask your way about as it has finger posts showing you the way.  You get your ticket punched at the platform entrance and then enter the train, and at the other end you have to pass turnstiles and give up your ticket.
We were soon in the main street.  Very wide again and cable cars run here, but so much better than the old crocks we have at home.  We entered the first restaurant for breakfast, as you want something you can enjoy, 3hich you can’t do on the Ormuz – so we ordered steak with eggs and cocoa.  This we did full justice to, although we paid over 1shilling and sixpence each it was a jolly good meal.  Then for a walk along Burke St.  Here we saw bricklayers hard at work, although it was a holiday.  Trade is picking up here after the strike.  It is a lovely place, but does not have the smart appearance of Adelaide, the stone and brick buildings being so mixed up.  However, the Post Office, Government buildings and Law Courts are all fine places.  They have parks and open spaces all over the city and a lovely river for boating etc;  The people all seem bright and I have not seen anybody or children begging or in tatters in any of the places in Australia.
The Melbourne men all look workmen and I have only seen a few top hats.  The women and girls all look over dressed, with their hobble skirts, large hats and painted faces.  They are mostly finely built and tall, but I am inclined to think it is rather an immoral life many of them lead.
We spent a day and a half here and I had a good look round.  Everything looksd as cheap as at home, ladies things I did not look at of course except some very pretty furs and muffs, which are cheaper.  I also saw a small tea service similar to Con and my breakfast set for 21 shillings, so you see that prices are about the same.  I saw a nice quilt, pink like the one Con and I saw in Birmingham.  Mens boots run from 42shillings and ladies dresses from 18/11